🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.